Article by John Pelley
Drove to Quebec City, about ten miles. Today is the Feast of St John the Baptist, a major holiday in Provence Quebec. Over 250,000 people gathered the previous evening on the Plains of Abraham for a concert and fireworks display. The streets in the Old City were still filled with revelers and sanitation workers were cleaning up the debris left from the huge party.
With the temperature in the nineties we took our water bottles and started off on the walking tour of the old city. The old city, vieux Quebec, is surrounded by a wall with only a few gates to permit entry. Our first stop was the Jesuit Chapel built in 1817. This is a very simple chapel whose architect was a member of the Baillairge dynasty. They seem to have designed most of the churches in Provence Quebec.
Down the street, next to the fortifications, is Artillery Park, a National Historical Site of Canada. The park has buildings you can visit. The most interesting of them is the Dauphine Redoubt. The lowest two floors were built by the French in 1712. The British added a third floor, and the Canadians added a fourth floor when the complex was used as a munitions factory from 1902 until 1964. The park includes an officer’s quarters and a barracks, which is the longest building built by the French in North America. Until then the soldiers were quartered in the homes of civilians.
From Artillery Park we walked the historic streets to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the oldest parish North of Mexico. Bishop Laval, the diocese first bishop traveled most of the diocese, which extended from Newfoundland to New Orleans, LA. Remember that all of the land along the Mississippi once was claimed by France. Across the plaza is the City Hall and next door is the Seminary, which eventually became Laval University.A short three block walk is the luxury hotel, Chateau Frontenac, which dominates the Quebec Skyline. The tower was not part of the original hotel. When a fire destroyed the old hotel the tower was built and the hotel surrounded it. This seems to be one of the focal points of the city. Many people congregate around the hotel, perhaps because of the numerous parks which surround it.
A walk down Rue St. Louis bring you to a tree with a canon ball in its roots, a souvenir from the fall of Quebec in 1759 under a hail of over 20,000 cannon balls.Walking the streets is a real treat. Even though the sidewalks are narrow and the streets climb up and down the hills, the experience is one of being in an eighteenth century French town.
The changing of the guard at the Citadel is a must see event. The Citadel, erected on the original French site in 1820 to ward off attack from the USA, is the home of the 23rd Regiment of the Canadian Army. Formed during World War I, as the only French speaking Canadian regiment, they have also seen combat action during World War II and the Korean Conflict. At 10:00 A.M. daily they hold the traditional changing of the guard, complete with marching band and their goat mascot. Sixteen men, plus their officers are on guard duty for twenty-four hour periods. The ceremony takes thirty-five minutes and is then followed by an hour tour of the facilities.
The fortress is the largest fortification garrisoned by regular troops in North America. Star shaped in design, the main defense faced the river, the cannons having a two and a half mile range. While on the tour, the commandant’s wife waved from a second floor window to the group and showed off her two year old puppy, Chelsea. The Citadel overlooks the Plains of Abraham, where Montcalm lost the battle to Wolfe. During the battle, both lost their lives. There is free two hour parking inside the walls of the fortress. The entry is serpentine and the main gate is very narrow, the original structure from the fortifications.
We drove around the Plains of Abraham. Here too is free parking, the visitor’s center, the fine arts museum and beautiful views of the river. Here the cliffs protecting Old Quebec fall way to sloping access to the river, perfect entry for the army to attack.Drove past the summit of Montmorency Falls. The falls have been dammed to harness electricity. A suspension bridge let people look down from the summit and a cable car takes passengers from the bottom to the top and vice versa. Since the falls are higher than Niagara Falls, use of the cable car is better than climbing the steps.
About the Author
John Pelley is a Geriatric Gypsy. He is retired from the rat race of working. He is a full-time RVer, who ran away from home. He began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons He has discovered volunteering with the National Park System. He has a CD he has recorded of Native American flute music., A Day with Kokopelli. For pictures, links, and more information visit http://kim-jong-il.com/8nS.
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